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When You Go to Papua New Guinea

By: ailliam rodriguez

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Smearing themselves in pig grease and soot, think about being surrounded by hundreds of Stone Age tribesmen as they brandish their weapons from axes to spears to arrows and howl their war chants in your direction. It might seem rather disturbing. It may be the annual Highlands Show of Papua New Guinea that you are watching.

For Papua New Guinea, it is located in between and the equator, it is made up of small islands from the Bismarck Archipelago plus the eastern half of the large island that it shares with Indonesia. In 1975 was when this country achieved independence and nationhood but before this happened, separately managed Papua and New Guinea under various United Nations trust arrangements. In this country, there are still some parts which are unaware of the western way of life.

Able to explore these rugged Highlands during the 1930s were white men traveling on foot. Today, the white man is still considered as a novelty and a tourist with a camera is just as amazing as the painted warriors who are performing in the Highlands Show. The two day show is held alternately in the towns of Goroka and Mount Hagen and attracts over 60,000 people, most of them Papua New Guineans. In order for some of them to participate in the festivities, there are people who walk all the way from Telefomin, Wapenamanda, and Ukarumpa.

In this case, shown are the usual agricultural and crafts exhibits plus local skills which include fire making and house building. Light entertainment is scattered throughout the program. The competitors have their weapons with them and are barefoot as they engage in bicycle races, chasing after a greased pig, and racing up a greased pole where there are cigarettes and beer dangling above. The tribes displaying their treasured ceremonial attire during the sing sing competition to tourists and locals is the climax of the weekend.

The pace changes to stage a legend from tribal history or to simulate battle and people continue to dance and chant to the deep hollow beat of the kundu drum even under the hot sun. A feast for the eyes during the Highlands sing is the kaleidoscope of color and costume. Well decorated are the dancers here. Luminescent in red and blue ochre are their faces and their bodies are covered with the darkest soot and as trimmings they use everything including store bought crepe paper, leaves, feathers, and beads. Used by those with pierced septums are not the usual pig's tusk or other bone but ball point pens and even pieces of an automobile engine and safety pins make for great earrings.

The occasion also means that the village heirlooms will be unwrapped and displayed. There is much pride when children wear their headpieces made from the fur of the spotted cuscus, a small marsupial. Considering how seashells were once a form of currency, the people still consider them to be valuable. The tall swaying plumes of the cassowary and of the national symbol which is the peacock like Raggiana Bird of Paradise can be seen at times.

After this the eerie Asaro mudmen come into view. Apart from being coated in white mud, they use sun baked clay and straw to make grotesque headgear. What they do is slap leaves off their thighs as they do a swaying dance. A legend says that one tribe retreated into the Asaro River when they were pursued by their enemies.

They came out all covered in the white clay and thinking that they were ghosts, their enemies fled. To commemorate this victory, the Asaro mudmen continue to cover themselves in the same river mud. After the all the sing sings, cash and cattle prizes are handed out to those who are best in costume not to mention best in their presentations. The trek downhill begins for the people after everything is said and done.

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